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Wine is a popular drink in Italy.
Grapes are grown
in almost every part of Italy,
with more than 1 million vineyards under cultivation. In some places the vines
are trained along low supports. In others they climb as slender saplings.
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Italy's 20 wine regions correspond to the 20
political regions. Understanding of Italian wine becomes clearer with an understanding
of the differences between each region; their cuisines reflect their indigenous
wines, and vice-versa. The 36 docg wines are located in 13 different regions
but most of them are concentrated in Piedmont and Tuscany. Among these are appellations
appreciated and sought by wine lovers around the world: Barolo, Barbaresco,
Brunello and Chianti Classico. Despite its high quality Amarone is not
classified as a DOCG.
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The regions are, roughly from
Northwest to Southeast:
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- Aosta Valley
- Piedmont
- Liguria
- Lombardy
- Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol
- Friuli-Venezia Giulia
- Veneto
- Emilia-Romagna
- Tuscany
- Marche
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- Umbria
- Lazio
- Abruzzo
- Molise
- Campania
- Basilicata
- Apulia
- Calabria
- Sicily
- Sardinia
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Italian Wine Grape Varietals
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Italy's Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry
(MIRAF), has documented over 350 grapes and granted them "authorized"
status. There are more than 500 other documented varietals in circulation as
well. The following is a list of the most common and important of Italy's
varietals.
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Rosso Red
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Sangiovese - Italy's claim to
fame, the pride of Tuscany. Its wines are full of cherry fruit, earth, and
cedar. It produces Chianti Classico, Rosso di Montalcino, Brunello di
Montalcino, Rosso di Montepulciano, Montefalco Rosso, and many others.
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Nebbiolo-
The most noble of Italy's
varietals. The name (meaning "little fog") refers to the autumn
fog that blankets most of Piedmont where
it is grown, a condition the grape seems to enjoy. It is a somewhat
difficult varietal to master, but produces the most renowned Barolo and Barbaresco,
made in province of Cuneo, along with the lesser-known Sforzato,
Inferno
and Sassella
made in Valtellina, Ghemme and Gattinara,
made in Vercelli's province. The wines are known for their elegance and
bouquet of wild mushroom, truffle, roses, and tar.
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Montepulciano- The grape of this name
is not to be confused with the Tuscan town of Montepulciano;
it is most widely planted on the opposite coast in Abruzzo. Its
wines develop silky plum-like fruit, friendly acidity, and light tannin.
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Barbera- The most widely grown red wine grape of Piedmont
and Southern Lombardy, most famously around the towns of Asti and Alba,
and Pavia.
The wines of Barbera were once simply "what you drank while waiting
for the Barolo to be ready." With a new generation of wine makers,
this is no longer the case.
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Corvina- Along with the varietals rondinella and
molinara, this is the principal grape which makes the famous wines
of the Veneto:
Valpolicella
and Amarone.
Valpolicella wine has dark cherry fruit and spice. After the grapes
undergo passito
(a drying process), the Amarone they yield is elegant, dark, and full of
raisinated fruits. Some Amarones can age for 40+ years.
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Nero
d'Avola- Nearly unheard of in the international market until recent
years, this native varietal of Sicily is
gaining attention for its robust, inky wines, and has therefore been
nicknamed "the Barolo of the South".
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Dolcetto-
A grape that grows alongside barbera and nebbiolo in Piedmont, its name
means "little sweet one"", referring not to the taste of
the wine, but the ease in which it grows and makes great wines, suitable
for everyday drinking. Flavors of concord grape, wild blackberries and
herbs permeate the wine.
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Negroamaro - The name literally means "black and bitter". A widely planted
grape with its concentration in the region of Puglia, it is the backbone of the
acclaimed Salice Salentino: spicy, toasty, and full
of dark red fruits.
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Aglianico - Considered the "noble varietal of the south," it is primarily
grown in Campania and Basilicata. The name is derived from Hellenic,
so it is considered a Greek transplant. Thick skinned and spicy, the wines
are often both rustic and powerful.
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Sagrantino - A native to Umbria,
it is only planted on 250 hectares, but the wines are world-renowned. Inky
purple, with rustic brooding fruit and heavy tannins, these wines can age
for many years.
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Other major red varieties are Ciliegolo, Gaglioppo, Lagrein, Lambrusco, Monica,
Nerello Mascalese, Pignolo, Primitivo, Refosco, Schiava, Schiopettino,
Teroldego,
and Uva
di Troia.
"International"
varietals such as Merlot,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Cabernet
Franc are also widely grown.
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Bianco (White)
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Trebbiano - Behind cataratto
(which is made for industrial jug wine), this is the most widely planted
white varietal in Italy.
It is grown throughout the country, with a special focus on the wines from
Abruzzo. Mostly, they are pale, easy drinking wines, but trebbiano from
producers such as Valentini have been known to age for 15+ years. It is
known as Ugni Blanc in France.
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Moscato- Grown mainly in Piedmont,
it is mainly used in the slightly-sparkling (frizzante), semi-sweet
Moscato d'Asti. Not to be confused with moscato giallo and moscato
rosa, two Germanic varietals that are
grown in Trentino Alto-Adige.
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Pinot
Grigio- A hugely successful commercial grape (known as Pinot Gris
in France),
its wines are characterized by crispness and cleanness. As a hugely
mass-produced wine, it is usually delicate and mild, but in a good
producers' hands, the wine can grow more full-bodied and complex. The main
problem with the grape is that to satisfy the commercial demand, the
grapes are harvested too early every year, leading to wines without
character.
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Tocai
Friulano- A varietal distantly related to Sauvignon Blanc, it yields
the top wine of Friuli, full of
peachiness and minerality. Currently, there is a bit of controversy
regarding the name, as the EC has demanded it changed to avoid confusion
with the Tokay
dessert wine from Hungary.
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Garganega - The main grape varietal for wines labeled Soave, this is a crisp, dry
white wine from the Veneto wine region of
Italy.
It's a very popular wine that hails from northeast Italy around the city of Verona. Currently, there are over 3,500
distinct producers of Soave.
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Other important whites include
Carricante, Catarratto, Coda de Volpe, Cortese, Falaghina, Grillo, Inzolia,
Picolit, Traminer, Verdicchio, Verduzzo, Vermentino and Vernaccia.
As far as non-native varietals,
the Italians plant chardonnay, gewürztraminer
(sometimes called traminer aromatico), riesling, petite
arvine, and many others.
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Super Tuscans
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The term "Super Tuscan"
describes any Tuscan red wine that does not adhere to traditional blending laws
for the region. For example, Chianti
Classico wines are made from a blend of grapes with Sangiovese
as the dominant varietal in the blend. Super Tuscans often use other grapes,
especially cabernet sauvignon, making them ineligible for
DOC(G) classification under the traditional rules.
In 1968 Azienda Agricola San
Felice produced the first ever "Super Tuscan" called Vigorello, and
in the 1970s Piero Antinori, whose family had been making wine for more than
600 years, also decided to make a richer wine by eliminating the white grapes
from the Chianti blend, and instead adding Bordeaux
varietals (namely, cabernet sauvignon and merlot). He was inspired by a
little-known (at the time) cabernet sauvignon made by relatives called Sassicaia,
which openly flouted the rules set down for traditional wines in Tuscany. The result was
one of the first Super Tuscans, which he named Tignanello,
after the vineyard where the grapes were grown. Other winemakers started
experimenting with Super Tuscan blends of their own shortly thereafter.
Because these wines did not
conform to strict DOC(G) classifications, they were initially labeled as vino
da tavola, meaning "table wine," a term ordinarily reserved for
lower quality wines. The creation of the Indicazione Geografica Tipica
category (technically indicating a level of quality between vino da tavola and
DOCG) helped bring Super Tuscans "back into the fold" from a
regulatory standpoint.
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